My department is upgrading the saw zaw. We currently have a 4.0 amp Milwaukee(corded) that is a little dated to say the least. I was hoping I could get some suggestions. We have a 200ft electrical cord reel on the rig so power is not a problem.

Any help would be great Thanks

When cutting hardend steel it's better to use an 18 tpi at a slow speed. So if time is a concern i would look for other methods.

I agree with Tim, having used a reciprocating saw with various blades to test their effectiveness cutting a boron steel roof cross member (supplied by Volvo). The following points are what we observed from the testing:

-Less aggressive blade such as a 14 tpi produces less chatter and operator fatigue, similar to chatter created when cutting mild steel members or skin of the vehicle.
-Slower speeds reduce friction, a varible speed will allow the operator to find the correct cutting speed, and having orbital mode will allow the saw to cut more aggressively with reduced chatter.
-Wider demolishion/rescue type blades having a heavier the gauge stock and run cooler. Heat is a blade's worst enemy, removes the temper and the metal becomes soft.
-Even at low speeds, cutting boron steel sends showers of sparks, running water over the surface of the material helps reduce sparks and keeps the blade cooler. Not I said reduces not eliminates.
-Ceramic type blades made of carbide or tungston particulates seem to work well on the boron steel member. Testing did not include a member that was wrapped or shielded with mild steel normally found on a vehicle.

Hope this helps!