metal window enclosures

has anyone seen these things out there?
we hade a good job and they were a challenge
we did some ttraing and here is what we came up with
hope it helps
aa

This job in West New York was fought by NHRFR. Ops were hampered by the enclosures

The trend of sealing up vacant buildings is on the rise and is not likely to subside anytime soon. Owners of these buildings are resorting to the use of more formidable security devices. To this end, building owners and even some cities who own derelict properties have begun renting their security. These security rentals are in the form of metal screen-like enclosures to cover the windows and a heavy metal, vault-like door and frame mechanism to cover the doors. The window enclosures are constructed of heavy, galvanized sheet metal, approximately 15 gauge. This sheet metal is connected by a securing device to heavy metal bracing (which is nothing more than pieces of street sign metal, also called versa-bar or uni-strut.) The assembly is tightened via a securing device behind the window frame, which makes for an extremely strong barrier. The heavy metal doors are set in an equally heavy metal frame which is secured to the building’s door frame in much the same way as the window enclosures with additional locking measures built in. Both these window and door enclosures are nearly impossible to force using conventional means.


Brute-force tactics will not work here. In North Hudson, a recent two-alarm fire that started on the exterior in debris spread into two closely-spaced adjacent wood frame buildings that employed these type security measures. As the companies had never encountered these barriers before, they had an extremely difficult time both getting into the doors and forcing the window enclosures. The key to defeating the device is to first identify how they are secured. If you do not identify this, you will likely embark on a long, frustrating, and possibly dangerous campaign trying to defeat them. We will discuss the windows first.
The three types of securing methods we have come across are:
1. Metal tab and turnbuckle
2. Anchor-head and ratcheted cable
3. Side-pin
The first two methods of securing the metal enclosure are similar, may be interchanged, and consequently will employ the same tool and a similar tactic to defeat them. The key to identifying both is to look at the front of the enclosure and identify which type device is protruding through. You will see either metal tabs about the size of razor blades or nail-like anchor heads, both flush with the metal of the enclosure.

On the left is the metal tab type securing device. On the right is the anchor-head type. They are easy to distinguish and are the key to defeating these enclosures

In the metal tab and turnbuckle type, the metal tab pierces the metal window enclosure and is attached to a turnbuckle that is tightened between the framing behind the window and the enclosure. The metal tab which appears on the exterior of the enclosure will have an additional tab that protrudes at 90° angle to the enclosure. (Figures 4, 5,& 6)

Here is a close-up of the metal tab as it protrudes through the enclosure.

Here is the connection to the turnbuckle at back of the enclosure. This is simple to defeat if it is recognized.

This is the view of the metal bracing behind the window frame. Note the turnbuckles between the enclosure and the metal bracing

In the anchor-head type, the anchor head is attached to the end of a metal cable which runs through the bracing material behind the window frame and into a device that employs a ratchet to pull the enclosure toward the frame where the end of the cable is bolted to secure it.

Here is the anchor-head protruding through the enclosure. This will usually be flush against the enclosure.

This is the view from behind the enclosure. Note the cable attached to the ratchet mechanism set in the metal bracing.

Here is is a close-up of the ratchet mechanism

The rotary saw with the metal blade will be the tool of choice. Be advised that for all types of these windows, a sawz-all is not effective as the metal is too heavy and will result in broken blades or an unacceptable amount of time cutting.
To defeat the metal tab and turnbuckle, place the saw blade on an angle into the space just above where the tab sticks out at a 90° angle to the enclosure. Plunge the blade in for the full depth and it will sever the device. For the anchor-head and ratcheted cable, the same procedure will apply, but place the saw blade at the edge of and behind the head and plunge the saw in at an angle across and to the rear of the head.

Place the saw blade right next to the metal tab and make a plunge cut. Note how the metal tab on the right has already been defeated





It is also possible, but will take longer, with both the anchor-head and metal tab type connections, to use the metal blade to make a triangular cut (three overlapping cuts) much like a roof exam h*** around the anchor-head or metal tab. You only need to cut out three securing devices and then swing the covering out of the way. Although the three-cut and hinge method will get the enclosure out of the way, it is best to remove the entire enclosure for two reasons. First, this will turn the window into a door for additional egress from the interior. Second, leaving the enclosure in place will impede tip placement for ground ladder access to the window.

The overlapping cut method will take longer but will get the job done. Make sure all cuts overlap or the enclosure will not be released. This may still take some prying. It is best to remove the entire enclosure and turn the window into a door.



In the side-pin method, the securing devices cannot be seen by looking at the front of the enclosure. This will be your key that it is not the anchor-head or metal-tab type. They side pins will be located on either the top and bottom or on opposite sides of the edges of the enclosure. There will usually be four side-pins on each enclosure, two on each side on the bottom and top, each about 6-8 inches from the either side. The side-pins are attached to spring-loaded tabs on opposite ends of a metal bar run behind the metal enclosure. The metal bar is then attached via cable to the metal framing behind the window frame. The side-pins will be sticking through the small vents on the side of the enclosure where the tabs attach and the enclosure angles toward the building at a 45° angle.

This shows the side-pin protruding through the side vent holes at the bottom of this enclosure. There will be another side-pin directly across from this and on the top.

This shows a rear view. The spring-loaded bar can be seen attached to the enclosure. This one uses cables to secure the enclosure.

Here is the spring-loaded tab that must be sliced through in order to defeat this window. This enclosure used a turnbuckle.

There are two ways to defeat this type barrier. The first and quickest is, again to use a metal saw. The cuts must be made in the correct places or the securing devices will not be defeated. To defeat the device, plunge cuts must be made between the side-pins and the building on the metal enclosure itself. Make sure the cut is the full depth of the saw blade and made adjacent to and between the side-pins and the wall. In this way, you will sever the tab and release the support bracket behind the enclosure. You can make two cuts on the same side (top and bottom) and hinge the enclosure over or make cuts in both sides, cutting through all four pins and remove the enclosure completely.

Plunge the blade into the space between the side-pin and the wall. Note that the top pin has already been cut. Cut the top first and then move downward.

Hinge the window out of the opening. This may require some additional prying
The second way to defeat this type securing device is to use a rabbit tool (HFT). The stronger the building exterior, the better this will work. Again, place the tool near the side-pins as these are the areas that need to be broken for entry. Pry the enclosure away from wall, shearing the pins. Unfortunately, the rabbit tool method will not work on the other two methods of securing the enclosures so it is waste of time to try and you will probably damage the tool in the process.
Be advised that no matter how the enclosure is secured or what method is used to defeat it, caution should be used to control both the cut and the enclosure. Firefighters will most likely have to cut from a ladder which is dangerous enough, but when the coverings come free, they are heavy and can cause injuries if not controlled. Removing these enclosures is personnel-intensive. A whole company or maybe several will likely have to be utilized to remove these openings.
Forcing entry from the interior is not recommended, especially if there is a smoke condition. If you decide that this operation can be conducted, be careful where and what you cut. Do not cut the cable as it may be under tension and may snap back at the cutter. It is acceptable to cut the turnbuckle if it is present or cut the bar that spans the window opening. Again, if you are operating inside a building with no ventilation or no secondary means of egress available, you might not want to be in there.


If you want to force the door, there will be one of two types of enclosures. The first will have two keyholes in it, one on the top and one on the bottom. Use the metal saw and make plunge cuts about 1” away keyholes and toward the edge of the door. This will sever the throws that hold the door in place.

Note the top and bottom keyholes and the frame that the door is set into. These are extremely heavy doors. Cut about 1” away from the keyhole. Note that the door may be further secured and may require further methods

This is the securing device on the inside of the door. There is one at the top too

The second will involve the shearing of a carriage bolt near the top of the door. Knock it through the door with the point end of a Halligan. This will allow you to lift the operating handle and open the door. If this is not successful, attack the hinges with the saw. They will be exposed, allowing access with the saw blade, but will not allow the company to maintain the integrity of the door. If all else fails, cut a door in a door, which will chew up your blade but will get the job done. Usually, the door that is locked last will have the least amount of securing devices on it and the keyhole blade plunge or carriage bolt shear will work on that door. This is usually the front door, but that may not always be the case. Prepare for a challenge!
An additional safety note is to remember that the metal, when cut, will not only produce sparks, but it may be extremely hot from the fire in the building. In addition, this metal will not care who it cuts. The jagged edges produced by cutting it will be sharp. Take all necessary precautions and properly wear PPE including proper hand and eye protection.
One note here: If you force the door first and then the windows second, you might jeopardize the safety of your personnel. Once the door is cut, quite possibly a dozen or so firefighters will enter with tools, hose, and other equipment. If the windows are not off, the ventilation opportunities will be zero. How long, in a decent fire condition, can these personnel operate without adequate ventilation? Even more importantly is the requirement for secondary and additional means of egress. If you force the door first, there is likely to be a lag time between when firefighters enter and the windows enclosures are removed. If things go bad, no additional ways out of an already questionable structure could mean disaster. If there are enough personnel on hand to force both the door and the windows, great, but hold back the attack until more window enclosures can be removed. If there are only enough personnel to remove only one enclosure, start with the windows. If the place lights up, the openings can be used for stream penetration. Remember, this is a vacant building! Once inside, all of the dangers inherent in vacant structures are likely to be present. Risk a lot to save a lot. Risk nothing to save nothing. A burned-down vacant is no longer a concern to us. What our personnel are risking their necks for today will be trucked away tomorrow.
New technologies are cropping up with frightening speed and must be investigated to stay safe in this business. Don’t keep this information to yourself. For it to be of any real value, it must be shared with the entire fire service. There are many ways to do that, but first you have to get out in the street and look. You might be surprised at what you come across. Stay safe out there.