Ladies and Gentlemen,
I'm looking for advice on keeping tools rust free in the cold, northern winter months. Last night I cleaned and wire-wheeled all the hand tools on our engine. After 4 runs they were gathering condensation and rust again on their striking surfaces where they were left untreated.
The problem is that the engine goes from the warm station, into the cold, back into the warm station, back into the cold...you get the point. This is prime weather for condensation. Tonight I'll try leaving the compartment doors up, allowing for good air flow into the compartments while we're in quarters.
FYI, I did read Tom Tulipano's post in 'Paint or No Paint' regarding Boeshield and will try to locate some of this product.
Thank you all for your time...
Jeff -
A product I found that works very well is CRC Dry Moly Lube spray #03084. http://www.crcindustries.com/ei/content/prod_detail.aspx?S=Y&PN...
I spray it on any tools that normally rust quickly during winter conditions, hydrant wrenches, axes, pike pole tips etc. it sprays on and soon dries to a thin film that looks like a "parkerized" finish. We also use it on extrication tools as it also acts as a lubricant on the cutter jaws. For tool inspection the coating can quikly be removed with a solvent and coating reapplied as needed.
Bob,
Thanks for the input...we'll look into this product. The clean then coat, clean then coat, clean then coat method seems to be working for now. Although, elbow grease is the best protector I've found!
Just joined this group, "Tools of the Trade". The only paint we put on our hand tools is two 2" bands of paint that is our dpartment colors. This is used for ease in identifying our gear/equipment, this is in addition to a reflective sticker with our depatment name and rig number.
I have found that a light coating of machine oil, 3 in 1 comes to mind helps out on ax heads etc... Its less messy than some of the others. Its easier to control the application too because a few drops on the object is sufficient and rub it in with a rag.
For the handles, we have a combination of wood and fiberglass, we use electrical friction tape. To add a more stout grip we use old ice hockey skate laces wrapped up and down the length of the handle and then cover this with more friction tape.
It seems to work for us anyways and our tools seem to be rust free for the most part.
Bob Shovald
A product I found that works very well is CRC Dry Moly Lube spray #03084. http://www.crcindustries.com/ei/content/prod_detail.aspx?S=Y&PN...
I spray it on any tools that normally rust quickly during winter conditions, hydrant wrenches, axes, pike pole tips etc. it sprays on and soon dries to a thin film that looks like a "parkerized" finish. We also use it on extrication tools as it also acts as a lubricant on the cutter jaws. For tool inspection the coating can quikly be removed with a solvent and coating reapplied as needed.
Bob Shovald
Jan 12, 2009
Jeff Clayton
Thanks for the input...we'll look into this product. The clean then coat, clean then coat, clean then coat method seems to be working for now. Although, elbow grease is the best protector I've found!
Jan 12, 2009
John Dantuono
I have found that a light coating of machine oil, 3 in 1 comes to mind helps out on ax heads etc... Its less messy than some of the others. Its easier to control the application too because a few drops on the object is sufficient and rub it in with a rag.
For the handles, we have a combination of wood and fiberglass, we use electrical friction tape. To add a more stout grip we use old ice hockey skate laces wrapped up and down the length of the handle and then cover this with more friction tape.
It seems to work for us anyways and our tools seem to be rust free for the most part.
Feb 8, 2009