Tape:
If you can't get hockey tape go to a commercial electrical supply house and ask for:
3M brand - Temflex tape #1755
PN # 054007-50218
The tape is black and wears like iron.
Bob

Anyone tried the San Francisco hook? Works better than a NY hook!

Marques,
The chisel point, the 90 degree "hook" general thinnes of the tool head. (Far right in picture above!) Well balanced!

Looking for nfo and input on the pros/ cons of the "RAKE" I have not used one but believe it might be beneficial. Largely drywall in my area.

Not sure if I'm thinking of the same tool, but what I know as the "rake" is either in a 6 footer or a small D handle or "closet hook" size and has 4 large teeth with a long sharp hook on the opposite/top side. Used for penetrating and pulling. If that is what you are talking about, I find it to be a really good tool for quick work, short duration. It will bring down big pieces of drywall if you manipulate it right, but for getting into tight area's a skilled pikeman would be better. I prefer the N.Y. Roof Hook to all others. The Rake is good as an egress tool as well.

Sheet rock hook-A hook specifically designed for dry wall removal of all types. Can be used on other materials such as wood, plaster, sheet metal walls and ceilings. * An exceptional overhaul hook!

Features Larger Contact Point, Conventional Penetration, an Arc Hook, Exceptional Pry Action, Combination Rake and Hoe, Handles made of Solid Fiberglass, Choice of Knob End, Stainless Steel Wear Sleeve, and Celtex Grips

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That's the one! Good little tool.

Thanks for the info I was looking into the "Boston" rake hook I think is the actual name of it.

GOOD-BOSTON RAKE HOOK ~ Presently in use by the Boston Fire Department. On the head we have forged the Boston design out of carbon steel joining it to a stainless steel wear sleeve.

BETTER-SAN FRANCISCO HOOK ~ The hook used by the San Francisco Fire Department since the turn of the century. We streamlined the design and brought more function to its features. A sharpened edge and penetration point was added to the right angle along with large gripping teeth on the underside. Celtex grips and fiberglass shaft completes this unit. A gas shut-off and directional slot is built into the ram knob.

BEST-ALL PURPOSE HOOK ~ The New York City Fire Department standard hook to exact specifications in every detail. The most versatile hook used in the fire service today. This hook has a multitude of uses, from opening ceilings, walls, floors, moldings and casings to the rapid removal of wood, lath and plaster, tin and sheet metal, plasterboard, fiberboard and sheetrock. Features Specially Tapered Hook-Head Point, Two Workable Ends, Super Streangth Fiberglass Pole, Stainless Steel Wear Sleeve, Choice of Knob End, Electrically Non-Conductive, and Celtex Grips.

The purpose of using the butt-end of the hook for the punch technique is to reduce the amount of surface area and the amount of energy required to penetrate the wall or ceiling material. Having to force the D thru the material defeats the purpose. Additionally, holding the D when forcing the head of a hook thru a material increases the likelihood of wrist injuries.

"Maybe put a D handle on the end so you can perform Lt. Ciampo's punch techinque a little easier and you have a decent overhaul and extension tool!"

The issue is the punch tecniques works well with the all purpose head found on the roofman's hook or the multipupose hook or using the blade on the drywall hook. On most hooks it is more effective to utilize the butt-end to create the perforations to perform this technique. I understand the D can also be used. Having a small area on the butt-end is more effective when making an initail purchase. With a D-handle you run into the same problem as trying to use the large head assembly, too much area to efficiently penetrate. If your entire response district is nothing more than drywall this would not probably present much of an issue. Plaster/lath is nearly impossible to penetrate without considerable effort using the head of any hook much less a D-handle, whereas the butt-end can normally penetrate plaster and break lath after only a few attempts.

Oh yes the chicken wire, a good technique we have found for that is to start pulling the ceiling or wall by making the initial opening at the seam where the wall and ceiling meet, and pull the ceiling all the way accross the room and work out from that point. You may end up pulling more than you intended but it takes less effort than it does to try to make an expanding h*** where you are constantly fighting the wire. On walls we found it is easier to just cut it with the blade of the axe. Also we like to use the side face of axe head to batter the wall to loosen the plaster from the lath before pulling the lath strips. You can do the same on the ceiling by using the side of a heavy headed hook, kind of as you would venting glass or a little less effective you can strike it with the butt-end as you would to create a purchase working in an expanding circlular motion.

Do you guys run into tongue and groove wood planks for interior wall coverings up North?