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Here's one that is pretty nifty! Utilizing the Smoke Ejector door bar to get a spread on a commercial steel framed door. This works well....as long as the walls are steel or wood stud with sheetrock or plaster. I haven't had success with it on a concrete or block surrounded door! Generally the buck springs back after the door bar is removed.

Here's another: Marry the forks of two halligans to form one long pry tool for better leverage. "OR" utilizing a steel hook "wrapped" around the halligan for the same purpose.

"OR" slipping two steel hooks through the shoulder straps of a quickie harnessed SCBA of a downed firefighter, straight down to his legs and draping the legs over for a makeshift stretcher.

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Great tips Chuck. We have been using the ejector bar for a along time now, along with the bar in the harness trick. But many people may not know these.

Keep em' coming brother. Good job.
Tips for chocking a door: with a wood chock, insert it at the very top of the door, between the door and the buck with the pointed end facing downward. So if the door gets bumped, the chock just slowly works its way down, but stays. Another option, is to take a makeshift, "angle Iron" chock and hook it over the bottom hinge. This way it never gets bumped out, and if you have to leave the room staying low in a hurry, you will be able to grab the chock, and shut the door behind you for protection.

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