TOOLS OF THE TRADE-BASIC TOOLS OF THE JOB

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Comment by Rick Fritz on May 10, 2011 at 9:11am

What's new out out there guys? I'm kinda outta the loop!

Comment by Brad Hoff on February 12, 2010 at 2:09pm

A good axeman could but usually you will have to use a saw because the boards are commonly a considerable length. Have seen ones come off ceilings and roofs that were close to 20 ft in length.

Comment by Jamie Morelock on February 12, 2010 at 1:11pm

On wall and ceilings what methods do you guys use to remove it? Can it be done without a saw?

Comment by Brad Hoff on February 12, 2010 at 12:45pm

Yes we encounter T&G on occasion. It's usually in the better built and more expensive modern homes that you may find as well as the log homes with vaulted ceilings or in the older and well built houses or facilities out in our community. On the Army post a lot of the older buildings have tongue and groove decking on the roofs as well as the ceiling and walls. The last building I saw torn down (was our old maint. bldg converted to a fire station), had T&G on the walls and roof under the metal sheeting. Always fun finding this stuff especially when you try to open up and need to call for a saw.

You can see all the T&G in that was used in theses pictures. To bad it all went to wast. Good news is we have a brand new fire station that is almost completed after these got torn down.

Comment by Jamie Morelock on February 11, 2010 at 8:08pm

Oh yes the chicken wire, a good technique we have found for that is to start pulling the ceiling or wall by making the initial opening at the seam where the wall and ceiling meet, and pull the ceiling all the way accross the room and work out from that point. You may end up pulling more than you intended but it takes less effort than it does to try to make an expanding h*** where you are constantly fighting the wire. On walls we found it is easier to just cut it with the blade of the axe. Also we like to use the side face of axe head to batter the wall to loosen the plaster from the lath before pulling the lath strips. You can do the same on the ceiling by using the side of a heavy headed hook, kind of as you would venting glass or a little less effective you can strike it with the butt-end as you would to create a purchase working in an expanding circlular motion.

Do you guys run into tongue and groove wood planks for interior wall coverings up North?

Comment by Brad Hoff on February 11, 2010 at 7:42pm

Jamie

I forgot all about the plaster lathe as we don't deal much with that here in Alaska. I do see your point on how the punch technique is more useful on drywall and ineffective on the plaster and lathe until you have a good purchase point because I ran into it a lot growing up on the East Coast.. Throw in the dreaded chicken wire issue too.

Comment by Jamie Morelock on February 11, 2010 at 6:03pm

"Maybe put a D handle on the end so you can perform Lt. Ciampo's punch techinque a little easier and you have a decent overhaul and extension tool!"

The issue is the punch tecniques works well with the all purpose head found on the roofman's hook or the multipupose hook or using the blade on the drywall hook. On most hooks it is more effective to utilize the butt-end to create the perforations to perform this technique. I understand the D can also be used. Having a small area on the butt-end is more effective when making an initail purchase. With a D-handle you run into the same problem as trying to use the large head assembly, too much area to efficiently penetrate. If your entire response district is nothing more than drywall this would not probably present much of an issue. Plaster/lath is nearly impossible to penetrate without considerable effort using the head of any hook much less a D-handle, whereas the butt-end can normally penetrate plaster and break lath after only a few attempts.

Comment by Brad Hoff on February 11, 2010 at 3:22pm

Check out Punch Technique and the Tool Tips videos from LT. Ciampo from FE Training Minutes. Here he addresses the punch technique and avoiding hanging on to the D-handle. In Tool Tips he addresses opening the sheet rock with a large head assembly tool like the drywall hook below Training Minutes

Comment by Jamie Morelock on February 11, 2010 at 2:30pm

The purpose of using the butt-end of the hook for the punch technique is to reduce the amount of surface area and the amount of energy required to penetrate the wall or ceiling material. Having to force the D thru the material defeats the purpose. Additionally, holding the D when forcing the head of a hook thru a material increases the likelihood of wrist injuries.

Comment by Rick Fritz on February 11, 2010 at 1:40pm

BEST-ALL PURPOSE HOOK ~ The New York City Fire Department standard hook to exact specifications in every detail. The most versatile hook used in the fire service today. This hook has a multitude of uses, from opening ceilings, walls, floors, moldings and casings to the rapid removal of wood, lath and plaster, tin and sheet metal, plasterboard, fiberboard and sheetrock. Features Specially Tapered Hook-Head Point, Two Workable Ends, Super Streangth Fiberglass Pole, Stainless Steel Wear Sleeve, Choice of Knob End, Electrically Non-Conductive, and Celtex Grips.

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